I have had a c harmonica for a year, and I think im ready to get another key now. . Which one should I get? I play mostly rock and blues, and what artists I try to mimic depends, but mostly blues and rock artists. I think I found an answer. Cap’n Jack’s list might be a bit confusing using “E A” as a reference point. In that example, the first pitch is crossharp played on a straightharp of the second pitch. I’d say not to just memorize that list (which is a little incomplete) but to memorize this: 1) Crossharp is the V of the key the harp is straight in. That means a C harp plays in G crossharp. 2) If you know the crossharp key you want but need to know what straightharp key to play that on, use the IV of your crossharp key. That means that if you know you want to play in G crossharp, the IV is C. Doing it this way gets you covered for all of the possible key permutations such as “what harp do I use for G# crossharp?” [which is the same note as Ab but spelled differently; you'd use a C# or Db straightharp] What to buy next. Doesn’t matter really – buy what you want. If you want to be able to play everything then one day you’re going to need 12 of them. Helpful rules of thumb though: * Folk and hymn music likes C and G. We mostly play those in straightharp. G harp is low pitched (as is A) and any people prefer that lower sound. Many models only come in C and G for this reason. * String players (such as guitars and orchestras) like A, E, and D a lot along with C and G from folk styles. We mostly play their music in crossharp. D harp plays in D straight and A crossharp – simmering useful. E harp plays in E straight and B crossharp – not as useful. G harp (see above about folk music) plays in D crossharp. D is really close to C and so responds about the same as your C harp – the tone range is very similar. It plays in A crossharp. * Horn players like flat keys; C, F and Bb especially. We mostly play jazz on a chromatic and so key doesn’t matter as much. But, if you’ll be playing with horn players a lot, look at an F harp – it plays F straight and C crossharp. Thing is, an F harp is awful high pitch – any people’s ears don’t like that sound at all. An Eb harp (Bb crossharp) is also simmering high and not so “sweet” sounding. If you walk around the circle of fifths you get C, G, D, A, E. . And going the other way (fourths) C, F, Bb, Eb, Ab. . Those keys along the top of both sides happen most commonly because they have fewer sharps and flats. The more sharps or flats the music has, the harder it is to play for most players and also the harder to keep in tune on a wind blown or unfretted chromatic instrument. Nobody can really say what you should get next though because it depends an awful lot on the music you play and what key it’s in. If you’re playing alone it doesn’t matter in the slightest; it only matters when you’re playing with others or playing along to recordings. My preferred order is to alternate back and forth around the key circle: C, G (1 sharp), F (1 flat), D (2 sharps), Bb (2 flats), A (3 sharps), Eb (3 flats). . Etc. . Until I have all 12 but I tend to collect all 12 of a model when it’s made if I like that model and I already have mostly all key that might come up in any model or another.
I Saw The Light in the Key of G. Played on a Hohner Special 20 in the key of C. Second Position.
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